The French Alps beyond the slopes: your ski-free guide to winter

Anna Richards

Anna Richards

Before I learnt to ski, it felt like a bit of a cult. The well-to-do kids all went on university ski trips, followed by family ski trips, followed by entire ski seasons, and the resort names were vocabulary reserved for the Henriettas and Hugos of the world.

Tackling a frozen waterfall with ice picks and crampons
Tackling a frozen waterfall with ice picks and crampons © Nadirco - Adobe Stock Image

Then I moved to France, not far from the Alps, and I went through the painful (to body and ego) process of learning to ski as an adult. In spite of myself, I began to understand Henrietta, Hugo and the crew.

Skiing was enormous fun. However, a million and one guides to skiing in the French Alps exist, written by much more experienced skiers than I, and even now, part of the cult, I can't help feeling that people who just ski are missing out. There's much more to the Alps in winter than sliding down a slope, so why limit yourself to one snow sport?

Skiing is expensive. Skiing, as my brother-in-law showed after leaving the slopes in a strop on day one, flinging his skis to the ground, is not for everyone. For the sake of keeping things varied, I haven't included snowboarding or other types of skiing, like cross-country and Nordic, although all are great alternatives. Therefore, this is the ski (and snowboard)-free guide to the French Alps in winter.

Getting there: combine flights, accommodation and transfers in a snowy winter escape with Crystal Ski*, which offers affordable packages to resorts across Europe.

Coldwater SUP

There's something pretty special about being on the water with snow-capped mountain peaks all around you, but rig up. Wetsuit boots and gloves are essential, and I'd still recommend doing all you can to avoid falling in the water: many of the alpine lakes are glacier-fed, so the winter water temperature is often not much above freezing.

Lake Annecy's annual GlaGla race
Lake Annecy's annual GlaGla race © Iryna Kalamurza - Shutterstock.com

Most alpine paddleboard rental outlets only open from Apr-to-Oct, but NCY SUP in Annecy rents gear year-round. Once you're paddling, you quickly work up a sweat no matter the air temperature.

The ultimate coldwater experience is Lake Annecy's annual GlaGla Race. The shortest route is just 3 km, while the longest is 14.5 km, a heated charge across glacial waters (often in fancy dress), which takes place in mid-January.

Ice swimming

The Nordic craze for alternating coldwater plunges and saunas is said to have numerous cardiovascular benefits, so this is an alpine activity that will surely do you more good than a session at a renowned La Folie Douce.

Lac Bleu in Morillon, near Samoëns, is the site of an annual coldwater swimming competition, where contestants cover 50-to-1,000 metres in water of approximately 6°C; no wetsuits allowed! Most of us mere mortals only last a few seconds in water that cold, but there's a certain technique to it.

Learning the art of ice swimming
Learning the art of ice swimming © Inga - Adobe Stock Image

Swedish coldwater aficionado Asa, who runs sauna Bastu74, guides newcomers on the art of swimming in temperatures barely above freezing.

Using breathing exercises and repeated alternations between the sauna and lake, you get to the point where it's no longer painful to get in the water, and you can even swim around. It gives you one heck of an endorphin kick, too.

Ice climbing

I've never felt quite so badass as when I was scaling a frozen waterfall with ice picks and crampons. It's physical to the point of feeling like ultimate survival, and there's a real skill in planting the ice picks so as not to rain down a shower of giant hailstones on whoever is holding your rope.

It's also a remarkable way to appreciate the shapes that the water forms as it freezes, as well as the electric blue colour much of the ice takes on. Try it at Oz-en-Oisans through Le Bureau des Guides de Grenoble.

Snowshoeing

A simpler alpine pursuit couldn't exist: traipsing through the snow with spiked tennis racquets on your feet. Contrary to popular opinion, and as I can attest after many snowshoe hikes, you don't float on the snow, so pack gaiters to keep the snow out of your boots.

Snowshoeing to places where skiers don't go
Snowshoeing to places where skiers don't go © Uwe - Adobe Stock Image

Any alpine town will rent snowshoes, usually for only €5 to €10 per day, making it just about the cheapest winter activity. A snowshoe hike I particularly enjoyed was Le Tour du Chard du Beurre from Les Saisies. The 6.4 km circular loop has wonderful views over Mont Blanc from the highest point.

Dog sledding

Anyone who watched or read The Chronicles of Narnia as a child surely dreams of this; wrapped up snug on a sleigh pulled by a dozen happy hounds. You probably imagine huskies, but although they look the part, huskies are stubborn and take years more training than other breeds like Weimaraners.

Gliding silently through the forest on a sled
Gliding silently through the forest on a sled © Roman Babakin - Adobe Stock Image

The best part? Many of your furry chauffeurs are up for back scratches and belly rubs at the end. Try it through the forest at Les Ménuires in the Three Valleys.

Ice diving

Many alpine lakes, including those in Tignes* and Chamrousse, now offer winter diving. It's open to all levels, but I'd imagine even PADI-qualified divers need to go with a guide; otherwise, this conjures up horror film images of not being able to find the hole in the ice to get out again.

Don't expect to see a rainbow array of fish; rather, a rainbow array of light refractions bouncing at all angles off the ice. Magical.

Ready to explore the Alps beyond the slopes? Find great value breaks to popular winter resorts with Crystal Ski as well as even more offers on holidays in our dedicated ski section.

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Anna Richards

Anna Richards

Anna Richards is a British writer living in Lyon, France. Drawn by the proximity to the mountains, long lunch breaks and plenty of stinky cheese, she’s never looked back. Her work has appeared in The Independent, The Telegraph and the BBC, and she’s worked on guidebooks for Bradt Guides, DK Eyewitness and Lonely Planet, with her first book, Paddling France, published in March 2024.

Posted in: Adventure Europe Nature Skiing & Snowboarding

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