How to spend a day in port in Funchal, Madeira
The capital of Madeira is among Europe's most underrated cities and the heartbeat of this archipelago. After a day exploring this intriguing town, set on a slope on the island's south coast facing the Atlantic Ocean, you'll quickly see why it packs a punch.
Getting there: why fly to an island when you can sail there? Check out the latest offers from Marella Cruises*, whose itineraries to the Canaries and Atlantic islands call at Funchal.
Morning market
Start off with a coffee and slice of local flatbread, bolo de caco, at one of several cafés set around the ground floor of the city's Art Deco market, Mercado dos Lavradores in the Zona Velha (Old Town) before browsing the flower stallers staffed by sellers in traditional dress to the fruit- and veg-laden stalls.
Agriculture thrives here, thanks to the rich, volcanic soil and sub-tropical climate, so make the most of bananas, mango, passion fruit and whatever else looks appetising as you browse.
For chocolate lovers, award-winning Uau Cacau has a stand here too. If you're partial to the hubbub of a local fish market, head downstairs where residents and chefs alike shop for the freshest catch of the day, including the island's famous deep-sea black scabbard fish.
Points of view
For great views over Funchal, head along the promenade and take the 15-minute cable car ride through the João Gomes Valley to the village of Monte, some 550 metres above sea level.
It's where you'll find Monte Palace Madeira Tropical Gardens, home to beauties such as the 'bird-of-paradise' national flower, Nossa Senhora do Monte Church and a great little café just below the church, Sweet Monte, with gorgeous views over the landscape is one of many lunch options.
Monte Palace Gardens also has its own restaurant and café, and a Poncha bar serving the island's fruity alcoholic signature tipple, poncha, a delicious concoction of sugarcane rum, honey, sugar, orange/lemon juice, and other fruits.
The botanically minded can take a second cable car up to Madeira Botanical Garden (Jardim Bot&acric;nico da Madeira) before returning to the city; otherwise, take the Monte cable car back down to Funchal*, or make your way there via Monte's toboggans.
Operated by two 'Carreiros' (sledge drivers) who use their rubber-soled boots as brakes, this now-iconic heritage sledge is a fun, speedy way to get back to Funchal. Expect queues and remember the toboggan ride ends halfway between Monte and Funchal.
You can catch a taxi or bus back to the city or walk; the fairly steep 2km walk typically takes 40 minutes to an hour.
Old Town vibes
Back at base, wander along Rua de Santa Maria and the surrounding streets in the Zona Velha. Explore shops such as Caravel Art Centre Art Shop and the pop-up Armazém do Mercado for local arts, crafts and ceramics, and look out for the ever-changing door art, part of the 'artE de pORtas abErtas' project (The art of open doors); some are beautiful designs, others are funny, some are topical.
For sea breeze and views, walk all the way along to the easternmost end of the street and mooch around the 17th-century fortress, Fortazela de São Tiago.
And if you fancy a pastel de nata (traditional Portuguese custard tart) or other sweet treat, most bakeries won't disappoint; they may be Portuguese chains, but Opan and A Confeitaria are good options too.
If you really want to get into Funchal's food scene, it's worth booking a four-hour Madeira Food on Foot tour; times/days vary, but there are mid-morning, lunchtime and afternoon slots as well as private, tailor-made options.
Wine not
For many, a day in Funchal isn't complete without a trip to a wine lodge. There are several across the island, but one of the most renowned is Blandy's, in Funchal's centrally located Cathedral Quarter.
It's a good spot to get familiar with Madeira's fortified wine, which involves repeated heating and the addition of brandy. Afterwards, take a walk around Funchal's town square, Praça do Município, and admire the striking black-and-white scalloped tiles on the ground.
An alternative afternoon
For a mini-adventure after Monte, swap the shopping and wine-tasting for a shot of adrenaline. A 20-minute taxi will get you to the glass-floor viewing platform of Cabo Girão, just west of Funchal (local taxis are plentiful; otherwise Bolt is more common than Uber).
Some 580 meters above sea level, its views of the south-coast cliffs dropping into the Atlantic waters below are quite literally jaw-dropping. If you can bring yourself to linger, look closely to see the narrow strips of farmed land (fajãs) below.
On the way back to Funchal, stop midway at the atmospheric fishing village of Cãmara de Lobos, where poncha bars and cafés line the harbour and seafront.
Stop for a sunset cocktail, beer and plate of grilled lapas (limpets, a type of aquatic snail), a Madeiran favourite. You can cab it back, but buses also regularly run between Funchal and Câmara de Lobos.
Bon appetit
It's easy to eat well in Funchal with the abundance of fresh produce. Fish lovers will enjoy Peixaria no Mercado near the market while Rua de Santa Maria in Funchal's Zona Velha is atmospheric, if touristy, by night.
Away from the old town, Informal is a great option, mixing modern Portuguese dishes with an East Asian flavour, while vegetarian and vegan-friendly Terra - Food Concept uses seasonal ingredients in dishes such as vegan tom yum, sumac roasted eggplant with mashed sweet potatoes and tahini sauce, and courgette stuffed with wild rice.
Look for dishes that maximise local ingredients such as black scabbard fish with mango, swordfish in banana sauce or black pork fillet with apple purée. There are usually at least a couple of vegetarian options (starter dishes and platters often come up with the goods) in even the meatier, fishier establishments.
Final act
Back by Funchal's cruise ship port is CR7 Museum, dedicated to the island's much-revered footballer Cristiano Ronaldo. If you're no football fan, give the museum a miss, but do stop at the statue of said footballer (if only to see how little it resembles him) before hopping back on board.
Climate in Funchal
| Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Maximum daytime temperature °C |  15 |
15 |
16 |
16 |
 18 |
20 |
 22 |
23 |
23 |
21 |
18 |
16 |
| Hours of sunshine (daily) | ||||||||||||
| Days with some rainfall |  12 |
11 |
10 |
 9 |
 6 |
5 |
 2 |
3 |
6 |
10 |
11 |
12 |
| Sea temperature °C |  18 |
18 |
18 |
18 |
19 |
 21 |
 22 |
23 |
 24 |
23 |
21 |
20 |
The above guide shows the climate in Funchal. Find out more about conditions across the archipelago in our complete guide to the climate in Madeira.
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