Finding a different kind of soul in Tennessee
For those who have been, as much as for those who have not, Tennessee is a state of music. It's proved to be a platform for groundbreaking artists through the generations, from Johnny Cash (a personal favourite) and Aretha Franklin to Elvis and Dolly Parton.
Music may be the lifeblood but it continues to spawn vibrant communities that offer so much more; from neon-lit, skyscraper-dotted cities dripping with formative heritage to prosperous towns, agricultural villages and 15 national parks, from country music and R&B to BBQ and fine dining, from the slightly clichéd to the authentic.
It's a state whose very nature fuels the creativity that's helped define its identity, proving that there's soul of all kinds here.
Getting to Tennessee: head to the US with the experts at Travelsphere on an escorted tour* that takes in some of the state's major sights. If you're looking for flights only, fly Virgin Atlantic* with a change in Atlanta.
A wild ride
"Over there!" a fellow passenger onboard Anakeesta Adventure Park's Ridge Rambler transfer to the city of Gatlinburg shouts, in my opinion, slightly too loudly.
The open-sided, safari-like vehicle slows as its headlights catch the thick, shiny coat of a resident black bear, one of nearly 2,000 roaming freely in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, which straddles Tennessee and part of North Carolina.
This great expanse was made a national park by Franklin D. Roosevelt in 1940, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983 and remains (thankfully) one of the largest protected areas in the eastern United States. Unphased, our black bear rears up against a tree for a back scratch, and we collectively scramble for cameras, flashes soon causing it to sink into the untamed darkness.
It's one of two sightings on our winding twilight journey down from the popular theme park above, and seeing these giants in their natural habitat gives me far more of a thrill than the Rail Runner Mountain Coaster had pressed upon me at speed mere minutes before.
The contrast of the bright, ride-spun park echoing with shrieks of delight atop a hill in a place revered for its tranquillity, biodiversity, waterfalls, hiking trails and wildlife, is a stark reminder that Tennessee is many things to many people (and many mammals).
Art for all in Nashville
The state's capital and largest city, Nashville, needs very little introduction; to music fans, anyway. Home of headliners including the Country Music Hall of Fame & Museum, The Grand Ole Opry, National Museum of African American Music (NMAAM), Ryman's Theatre, RCA Studio B and the unmistakable thrum of Broadway, it's a string-plucking, toe-tapper's dream, where music, history and icons collide.
It's confronting, too. At the Country Music Hall of Fame & Museum, a place where, as Jeremy Rush, Senior Director of Public Relations, tells me, "We take this art form seriously", exhibits trace the origins of much country music back to the influences from those forcibly brought to America during the slave trade.
Over at NMAAM, this theme is explored further, delving into the vital role music from different parts of Africa has had in developing genres, some now seen as nothing but all-American.
But Nashville's artistic scene encompasses far more than just music. At the Frist Art Museum, an ever-changing collection of work adorns the walls of this 1930s' former post office, itself a masterpiece of stone, glass and wrought ironwork.
We take in an evocative collection of portraits of those killed by police, including George Floyd, murdered in 2020, as Mark Scala, Chief Curator, says, "Our mission is to show the art of the world through every period." Contemporary topics no exception.
And the city wears its art on its sleeve, with Nashville's Public Art Collection scattering 178 permanent sculptures, statues and paintings throughout its parks and public spaces, while the mural trail takes in swathes of different street art styles across multiple neighbourhoods.
There are also more than 50 art galleries encouraging people to pop in and see works from local, national and international artists.
Rides with purpose
It's an unfortunately dreich day as we enter the dauntingly cheery, sparkly pink world of Dollywood, the huge theme park of legendary performer and local hero, Dolly Parton, in the town of Pigeon Forge.
A one-way system subtly steers us around the park, through The Dolly Parton Experience, past Eagle Mountain Sanctuary, said to be the largest aviary of bald eagles that cannot be released in the US, and on to the Lightening Rod rollercoaster, one of 10 across the park.
This high-speed, high-octane ride has me in literal tears by the end, and I limp out, acutely reminded of why I don't 'do' rides. I recover with what I'm told is the park's signature cinnamon bun, a tear-and-share affair dripping in gooey icing; just the sugar hit required.
But here, Dolly Parton is far more than sequins, singing and a fun day out. Inspired by her father's inability to read or write, Dolly launched the Imagination Library in 1995, part of the wider Dollywood Foundation.
It provides free books to children and, to date, has sent more than 230 million books worldwide, with more than 700,000 to children in Tennessee.
Meanwhile, Dollywood itself employs thousands locally and funds scholarships and development projects, cementing her as not only a cultural icon but a powerful force for education and economic growth in her home state.
Remaking history
Entertainment heritage melds with a new form of fun within the walls of The Pines in the historic city of Sevierville. There's been a native settlement here from as early as 200 CE, while John Sevier, the first Governor of Tennessee, established Sevier County in 1794.
The childhood home of Tennessee legend Dolly Parton, you'll pass her life-sized statue on the way to what was once the town's main theatre and entertainment venue, where Dolly played her first ever paid gig in 1956.
Today, it's all good, hearty American food (think stacked burgers, pizza pies and BBQ), retro games, duckpin bowling and cocktails with a strong whiff of hipster, but no less of an important space that was saved from dereliction for the next generation.
Back in Nashville, the clue is in the name at The Listening Room, where anything but complete attention is actively discouraged. In its own words, it's "a venue that emphasises the real rapport between artist and listener" as performers take to the stage to woo avid ears with country sounds from songwriters and new, upcoming artists.
It's the antithesis of what many of us are used to, where music can be secondary to chatter and doom scrolling. Here, it's the star of the show, and your expected concentration is strangely liberating and easy to give when the talent sings for itself. It's one where respect and appreciation for the artists and the wider magic of music are the true stars of the evening show.
Booze both ways
If you think we're heading for Jack Daniel's, you're mistaken. I'm standing, instead, in a creekside clearing, the sun streaking through a canopy of fairylight-strung trees on a warm evening in the somewhat boujie village of Leiper's Fork, close to the city of Franklin.
I'm handed a glass of cool Tennessee-produced Farmstead Cellars sparkling wine in the grounds of Wines by the Fork. Water flows peacefully by this ode to the state's burgeoning wine production, which began in earnest in the 19th century. European settlers from the likes of Germany started cultivating vines, and although prohibition halted production, it's firmly back on track.
Tennessee's first licensed winery may have opened as late as 1980, but wine production has grown from just 24 wineries in 2001 to over 100 today. Wines by the Fork is a delicious example of how this industry is attracting everyone from amateur wine drinkers (hello!) to discerning oenophiles.
Perched at the bar in Shine Girl outside of Sevierville, it's a story of a different shape. The passion project of vivacious Danielle Parton (very much a relation), I listen as our warm and engaging host talks candidly and with great humour about growing up with a world-famous aunt, her service as a civil and award-winning combat pilot, and what drives her to succeed as a female business owner.
Wobbling out of her bar-cum-shop, laced with rose, lavender and red velvet flavoured corn-based spirits, I'm struck yet again by how anyone can be, and can experience, whatever they want in this colourful state.
Climate in Tennessee
| Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Maximum daytime temperature °C |  8 |
10 |
 16 |
 22 |
 26 |
 30 |
32 |
31 |
 28 |
22 |
16 |
10 |
| Hours of sunshine (daily) | ||||||||||||
| Days with some rainfall |  10 |
10 |
12 |
11 |
11 |
 9 |
10 |
8 |
8 |
7 |
10 |
11 |
The above guide shows the climate in Nashville. Find out more about conditions across the state in our complete guide to the climate in Tennessee.
Ready to discover Tennessee? Explore the state with the experts at Travelsphere, which offers great value itineraries. You can also book flights via Atlanta with Virgin Atlantic.
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