8 ways to dive into the best of the British Virgin Islands

Tristan Rutherford

Tristan Rutherford

They're called the Virgin Islands for a reason. This emerald scatter of 60 Caribbean* islands is pristine. Around a quarter of the archipelago is inhabited; the remainder is the private domain of loggerhead sea turtles and hermit crabs.

Dive into adventures new in the British Virgin Islands
Dive into adventures new in the British Virgin Islands © BlueOrange Studio - Adobe Stock Image

Astonishingly 21 national parks, some covering lagoons, others forested mountains, keep the island chain clean.

The best news? The wildest sites in the British Virgin Islands*, or BVIs, are easily accessible. Want to sip rum in a former pirate cove? Or hike a sandy trail to a Robinson Crusoe shore? There's a virgin beach with your name on it.

Getting to the British Virgin Islands: browse deals on the latest Marella Cruises' Caribbean itineraries* including stops to the British Virgin Islands.

Sage Mountain, Tortola

The highest point in the British Virgin Islands, or BVIs, is a sub-tropical jungle with spell-binding views over the four main islands and 50 smaller cays. In 1964, Sage Mountain became the first of 21 national parks. Today, this verdant peak is crisscrossed by 12 hiking trails. Maps are available at the park entrance.

Sage Mountain's cloud-topping elevation and regular rainfall create a unique ecosystem. The 174-acre park features vegetation unchanged since Columbus first spotted the islands in 1493: evergreen bulletwood, Honduran mahogany and white cedar. Avian species include the noisy red-tailed hawk and coconut tree-dwelling Caribbean martin.

The Baths, Virgin Gorda

Virgin Gorda, the second most populous island in the BVIs, is a 20-minute ferry trip from the largest island, Tortola. The island's top excursion is to The Baths National Park.

Explore behind the boulders of The Baths
Explore behind the boulders of The Baths © David Kirsch - Flickr CC BY-NC-ND 2.0

Here, huge granite boulders have created lagoons where visitors can soak as if in their own private hot tub. Enter this dreamscape barefoot. Then stroll watery passages that lead to more rock pools and snorkel sites.

Within The Baths Devil's Bay is a silver swoosh of beach surrounded by more boulders and secret swim spots. Time your trip to this Robinson Crusoe beach right and you may be the only person on the beach.

Smuggler's Cove, Tortola

The clue's in the name. Long before the BVIs became a British Overseas Territory, the islands were an international pirate hub. Smuggler's Cove once welcomed rum-slinging buccaneers. Today the only hint of civilization comes from the handful of rum shacks serving Callwood Cane Rum over ice.

Find a piece of paradise at Smuggler's Cove
Find a piece of paradise at Smuggler's Cove © Irishka777 - Dreamstime.com

The beach at Smuggler's Cove is regarded as one of the best in the BVIs. Picture a Caribbean screensaver: a curving banana of yellow sand, trimmed by turquoise shallows and nodding green palms.

These colours are bettered by the rainbow of sea life on the nearby reef. A 30-minute drive from the cruise terminal at Road Town*, this former pirate's lair is paradise found.

Arawak conch shell mounds, Anegada

The Virgin Islands were first settled around 2,000 years ago by the Arawak people from South America. Over centuries, fisherfolk have piled up shells of conch, the islands' shellfish staple, on the eastern end of Anegada island. These discarded shells now form pink and white islands, which can be visited on a local tour boat.

Spot wildlife like iguanas on Anegada island
Spot wildlife like iguanas on Anegada island © Kevin Oke Photography - Adobe Stock Image

Note that Anegada is geologically distinct from the other Virgin Islands. The only coral island in the chain, it has beaches the colour of icing sugar, as well as flamingoes and iguanas galore. Most alluring are its seldom-snorkelled coral reefs. Bonefish and parrotfish are regular visitors.

Gorda Peak, Virgin Gorda

The highest point on Virgin Gorda offers far more than epic views. The peak is also home to some of the Caribbean's last remaining dry forest, as well as the endemic (and world's smallest) lizard, the Virgin Gorda Gecko. Babies are smaller than a fingernail.

Godra Peak can be ascended via two hiking trails that lead off the main North Sound Road. On clear days you can see the furthest Virgin Island, Anegada, on the horizon. Then descend under a canopy of umbrella-like Tetrazygia angustifolia trees.

Botanical Gardens, Tortola

For a breath of fresh air on Tortola, the largest British Virgin Island, book a short taxi ride or make the 25-minute stroll from Tortola's Road Town cruise terminal to Joseph Reynold O'Neal Botanical Gardens.

Three acres of tropical flora have taken over the old Agricultural Experiment Station, where exotic plants were once grown and researched.

Fauna includes the rare red-footed tortoise, who make their home in beds of rare orchids. Be sure to amble along the swaying avenue of royal palms, one of the gardens' highlights.

Cam Bay, Great Camanoe Island

Cam Bay on Great Camanoe Island is the stuff of postcards: turquoise lagoons, a kaleidoscope of coloured fish and a deserted beach.

The reef is unusually shallow, allowing snorkelers to drift alongside eagle rays, green turtles and yellowtail snapper. Imagine the Caribbean, decades ago. All are accessible on a boat tour from the main island of Tortola.

It gets better. A sandy track zigzags from Cam Bay to Lee Bay, home of more solitary sands. A pottery shard discovered in the bay proves swimmers have frequented these shores since 800 CE.

Callwood Rum Distillery, Tortola

During the 1800s, a buccaneer named Richard Callwood purchased a sugar estate above the golden sands of Cane Garden Bay. Centuries later, his descendants run this tiny wood-fired rum distillery.

Sample the local tipple at Callwood Rum Distillery
Sample the local tipple at Callwood Rum Distillery © Imac - Alamy Stock Photo

The operation is decidedly boutique, producing just 25 gallons per day. Tours explore the sunny cane fields, as well as the fragrant ageing rooms.

Tasting Callwood Rum just metres from where it is created is a rare treat. Just don't delay your departure to your next port of call. As the distillery's tagline reads: "Time flies when you're having rum".

Climate in the British Virgin Islands

  Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Maximum daytime temperature °C
Hours of sunshine (daily)
Days with some rainfall
Sea temperature °C

The above shows the climate in Tortola. Find out more about conditions across the islands in our complete guide to the climate in the British Virgin Islands.

Ready to explore the BVIs? Check out the latest offers on itineraries with Marella Cruises to sail in and discover the island at your leisure.

Marella Cruises: All inclusive as standard

More about the British Virgin Islands

British Virgin Islands by month

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Tristan Rutherford

Tristan Rutherford

Tristan Rutherford is a multiple award-winning travel journalist based in the UK. When he's not travelling in the likes of France, Croatia and Turkey he's found writing about them for the likes of The Times and the Daily Telegraph. He also lectures in travel writing and leads luxury yacht tours of the French Riviera and Croatia.

Posted on Monday 22nd January 2024 in: Beach Caribbean Excursions Marella Cruises Nature

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