Why SCHLOSS Roxburghe is Scotland's dream countryside escape
The rolling hills of the Scottish Borders, where fields beam bright with oilseed rape and flowering gorse as we drive between neat hedgerows in the spring sunshine, have always seemed like gentle countryside to me.
Yet, the history of the Borders is anything but. Historically, an area of perpetual tussle and turmoil, especially throughout the medieval period, these lands were repeatedly fought over by the English and the Scots.
The wiggly border was redrawn countless times until 1482, when Berwick-upon-Tweed changed hands for the last time, although this did not stop the notorious Border Reivers from raiding and pilfering cattle on either side.
However, wool brought wealth, and Royal burghs flourished with patronage from the monarchy and the Church. But the Scottish Reformation of 1560 and the brutal English campaigns known as the Rough Wooing devastated the region; the great abbeys of Jedburgh, Kelso, Melrose and Dryburgh were sacked and left in ruins still visible today.
It was during the early stages of this unpredictable period that Sunlaws Estate was built in the 12th century. Having been burned to the ground more than three times, nothing of the original structure remains. Instead, a solid Victorian-era estate house, now known as SCHLOSS Roxburghe, stands in its place.
Opened under new ownership in 2019, its location pulls guests from across the globe, but notably from southern and central Scotland and northern England. Just a 90-minute drive from both Edinburgh and Newcastle, people come for the spa, golf course, and the estate-to-plate kitchen that takes advantage of the natural larder on its doorstep.
Bite-sized treats
Sinking into a plump sofa in the Drawing Room, where the walls are adorned with painted countryside scenes, curtains hang heavy alongside big light-giving windows and an imposing carved fireplace frames logs happily crackling, we're handed an extensive tea menu to kick start afternoon tea proceedings.
We scan the lengthy list of herby, fruity and spicy loose-leaf goodness, and I opt for a cardamom-rich chai before we supplement our feast with glasses of Champagne. They're soon joined by espresso-sized shots of roasted parsnip soup, before the ubiquitous tiered stand lands loaded with lots of mini morsels.
We finger creative takes on savoury classics, with a twist of beetroot gravadlax, a pretty mosaic of game pate from the estate, and the butteriest mini croque monsieur (posh ham and cheese sandwich bite), plus veggie baji with carrot relish and a crispy chunk of ham hock.
For a sweet finish, we tuck into petite homemade scones with rhubarb jam, blackberry and violet battenburg cake, and blood-orange-filled choux balls.
The sophisticated afternoon tea here is no secret and well worth making the journey for on its own. We idle in the Drawing Room for a good while, gossiping, munching and enjoying the peace that comes with no sense of being hurried along to get the next people seated.
Price: afternoon tea - £55 per person; Champagne - £17.50 per glass
Did you know? Bonnie Prince Charlie is said to have stayed at Sunlaws on his march south to England during the 1745 Jacobite Rising. It's believed he planted a white rose bush, which still flowers somewhere in the ground today. This legend is given a nod at Charlie's bistro, which fuses Scottish and French cuisines, and Bar 1745.
It's all about the pool
The sun warms my skin as I slide penguin-like through the parting glass doors into the outdoor pool. There's an easy mix of people in this long, lean infinity pool, which is undoubtedly SCHLOSS Roxburghe's most popular attraction.
While the SCHLOSS Spa, with its extensive treatment menu fuelled by ESPA products, offers all kinds of massages and treatments, the indoor-to-outdoor pool is the real star of the SCHLOSS Spa show.
Couples canoodle against the side, friends gossip over a leisurely breaststroke, and a goggle-clad gentleman seems determined to complete his lengths in spite of everyone else. I join those basking in the rays, still full of scones, reiterating to myself that there is nowhere better than Scotland when the sun shines.
Some are braving the outdoor loungers, but I'm content to doggy-paddle in circles in the 29°C water. Curious where some people are disappearing to behind a hedge, I pull myself out and follow them around to a bubbling dark marble hot tub. I plop into the 36°C water and casually eavesdrop on various conversations before heading into one of the two saunas.
Having marinated for a good 10 minutes, it's into the cold plunge at a positively balmy 12°C, all before cinching my robe and heading back inside where herbal teas, water, and small trays hint that you can help yourself to nuts or fruit. Reclining on my indoor lounger, the pool sparkling through the window in the sunshine, I disappear into my book and, quite accidentally, fall into a deep snooze.
Price: day package for the SCHLOSS Spa - from £95
Looking for something a little more active? Check out the activities at SCHLOSS Roxburghe's Country Sports Centre, which holds sessions in fly-fishing, clay pigeon shooting, archery and more.
And the swish rooms
When it comes to where to stay at SCHLOSS Roxurghe, you'll find a proper taste of history in any of the Manor House's 20 bedrooms; think more traditional decor with tartan furnishings, four-poster beds and fireplaces.
Meanwhile, families will settle nicely into the estate's new-build self-catering cottages, with up to two bedrooms and private garden terraces. But, for me, it's all about the Estate House.
Expertly developed in such a way that it's virtually impossible to see where the historic house ends and the more modern extension begins, they blend seamlessly into each other through Bar 1745 and the State Room Lounge.
Beyond the stone that once weathered the elements, there are 58 rooms, each recently renovated and super light, bright and sleek. In the King Bed Estate Park View rooms, expect clean lines, views across the grounds and a chaise longe for some window-side reclining. Fluffy robes and quality embossed slippers, perfect for heading down to the spa, included.
Price: B&B doubles from £250 per night
Book your stay: browse the latest great value offers on stays at SCHLOSS Roxburghe with Booking.com, Hotels.com and Expedia.
Enjoy Rosette-winning dining
Taking its name from the family who owned the original estate, Sunlaws at SCHLOSS Roxburghe is, quite rightly, proud to be the only restaurant in the Borders to hold three AA Rosettes.
Offering a rather special fine dining experience within the warmth of its burnt orange walls, the menu changes seasonally, using as much estate-grown produce as possible, be it the honey, game, herbs or salad leaves. Everything else is sourced as locally as possible and, as you might expect, fully provenanced.
The 10-course tasting menu (11 if you opt for the additional cheese course) has clearly been considerately curated and, as a pescetarian, there's no issue swapping out or slightly altering certain dishes.
I'm a little sad I can't try the house brioche with wagyu fat and miso butter because, frankly, it looks utterly divine. My friend, however, is quite content to demolish that herself.
We wait expectantly for one intricate dish after another to emerge, devouring everything from the Orkney scallop in Thai broth (personal favourite) to roasted veal sweetbread with local wild garlic (positive noises flow from across the table with this one) and steamed turbot with white asparagus, Skye prawns and smoked mussels.
The meal ends with a selection of picky sweet treats, and while I'm not normally one for a peaty whisky, the Ardeg tablet, with its intense sugary, fireside-like flavour, will stay with me.
Price: tasting menu from £110 per person
Get more from your stay: consider a whisky tasting session in atmospheric Bar 1745.
Apparently, there's a rather good golf course
Hands up, I know nothing about golf, and I certainly didn't play a round (that's the term, right?) at SCHLOSS Roxburghe Golf Course. But according to those who do know a thing or two about the stick-and-ball sport that originated in Scotland, its 18-hole course is something a bit special and, for many who love to tee off, the real reason to visit.
The course was designed by Dave Thomas, a pro-golfer from Wales who moved into designing golf courses after he stopped playing professionally. Opened in 1997, when it was still The Roxburghe Country House Hotel, it fits the bill as a championship course, with its distance and a par-72 layout.
According to The Times, former European Tour winner and Scottish pro golfer Sam Torrance "described it as his favourite in Scotland."
It's hosted European Tour qualifiers, and at the 14th hole, the River Teviot is said to run rather beautifully alongside before flowing under the Victorian Roxburgh Viaduct.
All about the location
SCHLOSS Roxburghe may be tucked away from reality, but its location is also superb for exploring the Scottish Borders if you're staying for a few days. Whether you're after local products, a bit of history or want to get out and about, you can do it all from this luxe base.
The nearby town of Kelso in a bend of the River Tweed, with its own abbey ruins and historic market square, is the closest to SCHLOSS Roxburghe for cafés and shops.
Browse independent boutiques, including House of Sika, for posh candles and quirky kitchen accessories, while uber-hipster Dor sells minimalist jewellery, clothing and ceramics alongside fresh coffee to go. There's also an abundance of antique centres, so be sure to scour for one-off finds.
Meanwhile, 20 miles west in Melrose, allow time to visit impressive remains of Melrose Abbey and take the free audio guide to get a complete understanding of the area's history.
Spare a few minutes for the Trimontium Museum too, which explores the story of the Romans and the giant fort remains that have been found outside the town.
Melrose is all about local produce, so pick up a flatwhite, and possibly some beautiful home accessories (I walked out with a gorgeous glass candle holder) at Haus and Co before finding the perfect pastry at either of the two Twelve Triangles bakeries.
Of course, the Scottish Borders is all about the outdoors, and there's no shortage of walks (we tackled a gentle riverside, five-mile round route from St Boswells to Dryburgh Abbey).
Add the cycle routes (the 56-mile Four Abbeys is a popular circular route, while mountain bikers will want to visit Glentress) and the relatively new Tweed Valley Canoe Trail to the west, and there's something for every interest in the Scottish Borders.
Climate in Kelso
| Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Maximum daytime temperature °C |  5 |
6 |
 8 |
11 |
 14 |
 17 |
 19 |
18 |
16 |
13 |
8 |
6 |
| Hours of sunshine (daily) | ||||||||||||
| Days with some rainfall |  18 |
 15 |
17 |
15 |
15 |
13 |
14 |
15 |
16 |
16 |
17 |
17 |
The above guide shows the climate in Kelso. Find out more about conditions across the country in our complete guide to the climate in Scotland.
Kirsten was a guest of SCHLOSS Roxburghe in April 2026.
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