What to do on an Ambassador cruise to Norway's fjords
As our luxury coach circumnavigates the tip of Romsdalsfjord, I realise this is the first time I have travelled by road in almost a week.
After crossing the North Sea on a cruise liner, I have taken a fast ferry, a funicular, and a mountain railway. I've even challenged myself on a high-speed RIB excursion. But no road vehicles, and, as an added bonus, no planes.
My no-fly cruise with Ambassador Cruise Line to the Norwegian fjords* is proving every bit as relaxing as I had hoped; the perfect way to see this dramatic landscape with minimal effort and maximum enjoyment.
Getting there: Ambassador Cruise Line operates no-fly fjord cruises* from spring through autumn, plus Northern Lights cruises in winter*.
Easy come, easy go
Ambassador Cruise Line operates two mid-sized traditional cruise ships out of seven UK ports (Portsmouth, Bristol Royal Portbury, Liverpool, Belfast, Dundee, Newcastle Tyne, and, my choice, London Tilbury*), all well-connected by road and rail.
My husband and I are on a nine-day Autumn in Fjordland cruise on board Ambience*, which takes 1,400 guests.
Having checked in online before leaving home, we simply hand over our suitcases in the car park, and cross the road to access the imposing Art Deco cruise terminal, which welcomed passengers arriving on the Empire Windrush in June 1948.
Passports checked, we collect our cabin keys in the terminal and open the door to our Balcony Cabin within 20 minutes. By the time we return from a light lunch in the self-service Borough Market restaurant, our bags have been delivered, and we unpack at leisure before our late-afternoon sailing.
On a sunny autumn afternoon, there seems no better place to be than sitting with a tipple in the fresh air as Ambience winds round the meanders of the Thames towards open sea. Next stop, Bergen.
Life on the water
But first, a sea day and a welcome opportunity to get to know our floating hotel. Bright, comfortable spaces include the Botanical Lounge, Centre Court, and the Observation Lounge, with panoramic views, while atmospheric bars like Raffles and the Purple Turtle Pub offer live music, from classical favourites to favourite ballads.
Waiter-served meals are offered three times a day in the stylish Buckingham Restaurant, with two dinner sittings. Though it's a large space, strategically placed partitions and soft, noise-absorbing furnishings keep it cosy.
Dishes are varied and well-presented with a different menu each day, and we are particularly impressed by the quality of the vegetables, always piping hot and never overcooked.
Also impressive is the twice-nightly show in the Palladium theatre. Ambience delivers some of the slickest, high-energy song-and-dance shows we have seen on any cruise ship, with talented performers treating us to everything from musical theatre to the Blues Brothers, a love story with Queen classics, and '70s disco anthems. On sea days, we also enjoy daytime performances by Theatre@Sea.
The magic of Fjordland
Most of Norway's 1,000-plus fjords are located on the west coast in Fjordland, and cruising is by far the easiest and most impressive way to see them. A fjord is a deep, narrow sea channel that reaches inland along a steep valley carved by glaciers.
The word comes from Old Norse, meaning 'to pass' or 'cross over', and the landscape has changed little since the time of the Vikings.
Cruise itineraries vary, so you can come here again and see largely different destinations. Ambience cruises at night, giving us all day in port. The fjord waters are flat calm, but expect a little movement overnight as your ship works its way up the coast.
You can, of course, explore port stops independently, but some communities are very small. In larger ports, you may also moor up away from the main town. We choose to pay for excursions from the ship at each of our five stops and enjoy five very different experiences that give us real insight into Norwegian culture and countryside.
Ferries, funicular & Flamsbana
Bergen is a must-see for its bustling harbour, the colourful quayside houses of the Bryggen, and the sweeping views from the top of Mount Fløyen, accessed from the town centre by funicular. We take a 30-minute transfer on a modern fast ferry from our mooring in the tiny new port of Austerfjorden, a lovely prelude to a guided walking tour.
Next day, we wake at the tip of Aurlandsfjord, departure point for the Flåmsbana. This single-track railway line opened in 1940 to carry freight from water level to the main Bergen-Oslo line more than 800 metres higher up the mountain.
Now one of the world's most scenic train journeys, the line winds up through 20 tunnels and on our autumn trip, we watch the colours change from pale yellow to russet and gold the higher we climb.
Eagles & trolls
Every day brings a new perspective on this magical landscape, and in Nordfjord, we opt for the thrill of a RIB boat 'safari' that alternates super-fast cruising with tranquil stops to learn about waterfalls and hydro-electricity and local apple juice production, all while white-tailed sea eagles circle over our heads.
In Andalsnes on Romdalsfjord, we explore quiet Sunday streets before boarding a coach to visit one of the last traditional wooden stave churches in a waterside farming hamlet. And we discover the Troll legends associated with Europe's highest vertical rock face.
Finally, we take our second short coach trip of the week from Sandnes to nearby Stavanger for some independent exploration.
We discover the quaint Old Town with its white wooden houses, succumb to the temptations of the compact shopping centre and, to our surprise, find ourselves totally absorbed by the waterfront Petroleum Museum that tells the story of Stavanger's vital role in the North Sea oil and gas industry.
A fascinating last excursion in a country that has delivered one delightful surprise after another.
Climate in Bergen
| Jan | Feb | Mar | Apr | May | Jun | Jul | Aug | Sep | Oct | Nov | Dec | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Maximum daytime temperature °C |  3 |
3 |
 5 |
 8 |
 13 |
 16 |
17 |
17 |
14 |
10 |
6 |
4 |
| Hours of sunshine (daily) | ||||||||||||
| Days with some rainfall |  26 |
 22 |
24 |
 20 |
19 |
19 |
21 |
23 |
27 |
 28 |
27 |
28 |
| Sea temperature °C |  6 |
 5 |
5 |
5 |
 8 |
 11 |
 13 |
 15 |
14 |
11 |
9 |
7 |
The above guide shows the climate in Bergen. Find out more about conditions across the country in our complete guide to the climate in Norway.
Ready to set sail? Check out the latest online offers on itineraries with Ambassador Cruise Line to book your next voyage for less.
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